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Thursday, March 04, 2010

How The Men Of The Third Order (Tertiaries) Are To Dress

Pattern for Cowl of St. Francis of Assisi

francis.gif (4163 bytes)
After Flury -Lembergh

This is a Monk's habit that once belonged to St. Francis of Assisi (d.1226). It is housed in Assisi, in the church of S. Francesco. It is made of an undyed fulled woolen twill, and is partially lined in linen. The actual garment is missing the left sleeve. There is a linen pocket sewn into the remaining sleeve. Several large holes in the garment have been patched, ostensibly by fabric cut from a cloak belonging to St. Clare.

  • Garment Material Length (to the shoulder):126.5 cm (")
  • Width at the top: 97 cm (")
  • Width at the Bottom: 167 cm (")
Torso Material Thread Count
  • Warp is 8 Z-spun threads/cm (21.6 threads per inch)
  • Weft is 10 Z-spun theads/cm ( threads per inch)

Although this garment is identified as being a "cowl", it doesn't fit the definition of a cowl according to the OED in that it has sleeves and no hood. It is closer to what was generally called a "frock".

"The men belonging to this Third Order shall dress in humble, undyed cloth, the price of which is not to exceed six Ravenna soldi an ell, unless for evident and necessary cause a temporary dispensation be given."

Chapter I


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